Polyamide, elastane, recycled polyester, modal: the complete guide to technical sportswear fabrics. What to prioritize, what to avoid. Galaya Paris.
You hold your new leggings in your hand and read: "75% recycled polyamide, 22% elastane, 3% polyester." So what? This sequence of percentages determines everything: comfort, lifespan, performance, whether the price is justified or not. Here is the complete guide to decoding a sportswear label and making the right choices.
Why Composition Matters So Much
Sportswear is exposed to 5 major stresses:
- Repeated stretching (up to 200% of its initial size)
- Perspiration (salts, acids, moisture)
- Friction (skin, machines, ground)
- Frequent washing (sometimes 3-4 times a week)
- UV and dry air
Only technical fabrics can withstand these 5 stresses simultaneously. Cotton and viscose deteriorate after a few months.
Key Fibers: What Does What?
Polyamide (Nylon)
The queen of sportswear fibers. Represents 60 to 80% of the composition of premium leggings.- ✅ Exceptional mechanical resistance
- ✅ Dries quickly
- ✅ Holds its shape
- ✅ Soft touch
- ❌ Sensitive to heat (no tumble drying)
Elastane (Spandex / Lycra)
The elastic fiber. 15 to 30% in technical leggings.- ✅ Elasticity up to 500%
- ✅ Excellent shape retention
- ✅ Provides support without rigidity
- ❌ Degrades with heat (cold wash mandatory)
- ❌ Sensitive to chlorine (pool is destructive)
Polyester (and Recycled)
Alternative to polyamide, often cheaper.- ✅ Dries very quickly
- ✅ Recycled polyester (from PET bottles) = better ecological footprint
- ❌ Less pleasant feel than polyamide
- ❌ Retains odors more
- ❌ Shinier (less elegant for city wear)
Cotton
To avoid for intense sport, OK for gentle yoga.- ✅ Ultra-comfortable
- ✅ Natural
- ❌ Retains moisture
- ❌ Deforms quickly
- ❌ Becomes heavy
Modal and Tencel (Lyocell)
Processed plant fibers (eucalyptus, beech).- ✅ Exceptionally silky feel
- ✅ Breathable
- ✅ Good ecological footprint
- ❌ Less resistant than polyamide
- ❌ Often reserved for tops, not leggings
Bamboo (bamboo viscose)
- ✅ Soft
- ✅ Naturally antibacterial (relatively)
- ❌ Production often polluting
- ❌ Often incorrectly labeled "ecological"
Ideal Composition by Item
Premium Sports Leggings
- 75-80% Polyamide
- 20-25% Elastane
- Optional: 2-3% polyester for sheen
- ❌ Avoid: presence of cotton
Sports Bra
- 70-80% Polyamide / Polyester
- 15-25% Elastane
- Optional: modal lining on the cup area
Yoga / Sports Top
- 50-70% Polyamide or Modal
- 15-25% Elastane
- Possible: 10-20% organic cotton for comfort
Sweatshirt / Sports Jumper
- 60-80% Organic Cotton
- 15-30% Polyester
- 2-5% Elastane
- → Here, cotton is OK, as it's not for intense sport
Certifications to Know
OEKO-TEX Standard 100
Guarantees the absence of toxic substances in the finished fabric. This is the minimum to demand for clothing in prolonged contact with skin.GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)
Guarantees organic certification (primarily organic cotton) and acceptable social conditions throughout the production chain.GRS (Global Recycled Standard)
Guarantees the recycled content of a fabric (typically recycled polyester from bottles).Bluesign
Ensures manufacturing processes respect the environment and worker health.Made in Europe (without official label)
Not a label in itself, but a guarantee of compliance with European standards (REACH) which ban hundreds of substances permitted elsewhere.How to Read a Label: Practical Exercise
Let's take an example:
75% Recycled Polyamide · 22% Elastane · 3% Polyester · OEKO-TEX 100 · Made in Italy
Decoding:
- 75% recycled polyamide: excellent fiber, good environmental footprint
- 22% elastane: top-notch support and shape retention
- 3% polyester: finish, subtle sheen
- OEKO-TEX 100: no toxic substances
- Made in Italy: European quality, REACH compliance
→ This is the profile of a premium legging. If you see this label, you have a quality product.
Counter-example:
- 92% polyester alone = average feel, retains odors
- 8% elastane = little support, poor shape retention
- No certification = potentially dubious composition
- Made in China not specified = no guarantee of standards
→ This is the profile of an entry-level legging. Acceptable for occasional use, not for regular practice.
Marketing Traps to Be Aware Of
"Technical Fabric" without specification
Any fabric can be called "technical." What matters is the exact composition, not the word."Made from plastic bottles"
Often true, but says nothing about chemical compliance. Look for OEKO-TEX in addition."Anti-bacterial", "Anti-odor"
Often results from chemical treatments (silver ions, etc.) that fade after 20-30 washes. Prefer naturally odor-resistant fibers (pure polyamide)."Eco-responsible fabric"
The term is not regulated. Ask for proof: recycling %? Certification? Origin?"Made in Europe" on the label
Check: "Made in Italy", "Made in Portugal", "Made in France" are reliable. "Made in EU" without specification can hide assembly in Europe with Chinese fabric.The Durability Factor
Good sportswear fabric should last 2 to 3 years with regular use (3 times a week).
Signs that a fabric is aging poorly:
- Appearance of pilling (fabric balls) within the first 10 washes
- Loss of elasticity after 6 months
- Rapid color loss (UV wear or detergent)
- Holes at the seams (poor cut quality)
Signs that a fabric is aging well:
- Impeccable appearance after 50 washes
- Preserved elasticity
- Stable color
- No deformation
The 3 Laundry Mistakes That Destroy Technical Fabric
- Washing at over 30 °C → degrades elastane
- Fabric softener → clogs fibers and kills wicking (moisture evacuation)
- Tumble dryer → gradually melts synthetic fibers
→ Routine: machine wash 30 °C max, gentle detergent, air dry.
→ Our complete guide to sportswear care (article 16).
The Galaya Approach
All our fabrics are:
- ✅ Sourced in Italy or Portugal
- ✅ Certified OEKO-TEX 100 minimum
- ✅ Composition optimized per item (not the same fabric for leggings and a top)
- ✅ Tested in real conditions before collection release
- ✅ Guaranteed durability: our 2024 collections are still in perfect condition for our customers
→ See our items or discover our material vision.